Leaking transmission cooler lines11/21/2023 I should be able to replace that nut, possibly add a new rubber gasket under the nut and tight to the fitting, possibly teflon tape, and it would tighten up. It just seems that the nut was definitely rusted out(stamped metal) and not holding much. If the experts agree that is the best course, I will do that. I have read a number of posts regarding leaky trans cooler lines, but most seem to say the radiator needs to be replaced. The hex nut that holds the transmission cooler fitting to the inside of the radiator is rusted and coolant is leaking. Ahh i was hoping it would be an easy fix but I'll likely have to fork out for a mechanic to fix it, it's on over 200K kms this likely won't be the last expensive fix it will needHey I've had the cooler line leak also, I just got a piece of rubber hose rated for oil and clamped ontop of the line with hose clamps.I have an 02 SL1 with 266k miles. Ahh i was hoping it would be an easy fix but I'll likely have to fork out for a mechanic to fix it, it's on over 200K kms this likely won't be the last expensive fix it will needīut yes to replace the filter is easy, you have to disconnect the hardlines but it's not diffucult to access itself, annoyingly also the hard lines run down the side of the engine with as many other engine parts as possible whereas the other side is basically void of any significant parts. The catalitic converter itself doesn't seem all that hard to remove and there is a post on a forum of something swapping theirs out and it took about 3 hours with the right tools, the hard lines should easily be manoeuvrable without it in the way but I wanted to see if anyone had any experience replacing them and if they found an easier way to get them out.īut yes to replace the filter is easy, you have to disconnect the hardlines but it's not diffucult to access itself, annoyingly also the hard lines run down the side of the engine with as many other engine parts as possible whereas the other side is basically void of any significant parts. Weirdly this seems to be a common issue, and frustrating they designed it in a way that a $200 pipe will cost another $1000 for a mechanic to replace it. They're the lines attached to the pump, I have the replacements just yeah they're impossible to actually get out without removing something to get enough space. The leak is at the top of the hard line, the piping has completely split because the hard lines were not actually secured to the car because they had rattled and the brackets had snapped clean off on the underside of the engine. B8 2.0 TDI + CVT was not sold in the NAR market that I know of. You should review the B8 forums at as well, as it's UK based and has a lot more coverage of TDI owners than here. No idea if cat removal on a 2.0 TDI is easy or not. But I can see that idea since it means you're only shifting the lines around, not actually removing them from the vehicle. What's interesting is the R&R for the filter has removing the ATF lines, but says nothing about needing to remove the gearbox to access the top bolt, remove the lines, or even to remove the filter. You have the hard lines 1 and 2 that come from the filter, then the flex lines 11 and 12 that go to the radiator. Maybe better clarity of exactly where your leak point is might help: Sorry to hear that.īut the manual makes the same statement regarding the R&R of the ATF lines in combination with 2.0 TDI or V6 configs: Oh, the type 0AW CVT (which is only comes in FWD config).
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